Latour Travel Guide to BOLIVIA

Travel Highlights

• La Paz - The world's highest capital city and gateway to all Bolivia
  
• Colonial Cities - Visit the historic gems of Sucre, Potosi and Tarija
  
• Tiahuanaco - Amazing pre-Inca culture with more questions than answers
  
• Lake Titicaca - Hydrofoils and reed boats at the very rooftop of the world
  
• The Yungas - A tropical Bolivia still undiscovered even by eco-tourism
  
• Santa Cruz - Gateway to the mysterious carved moutaintop of Samipata

Overview
The moment one touches down at La Paz's El Alto Airport, Bolivia becomes an incredible travel experience. Here, at the "rooftop of the world," one can experience the world's highest airport, capital, navigable lake, and ski run. Capital La Paz offers a full range of accommodations plus exotic shopping and sightseeing. Near La Paz are the mystery ruins of Tiahuanaco and sacred Lake Titicaca. Bolivia has great adventure travel, which includes challenging mountain climbing, jeep safaris and Yungas jungle treks. There are also many intriguing historical provincial cities including Potosí and Sucre. Prices throughout the country are generally bargains.

Country Facts
Size: Bolivia, at 424,164 sq. mi., is approximately one and a half times the size of Texas, and twice the size of Spain. Along with Paraguay, it is one of two land-locked countries in South America. Bolivia borders five countries - Brazil, Argentina, Paraguay, Chile and Peru.

Population: 7 million.

Capital(s): Bolivia is unique in that it has two legal capitals. La Paz is Bolivia's administrative capital, as well as being the world's highest capital city (alt. 11,909 ft., pop 1,000.000). Sucre is the country's constitutional capital.
Language: Spanish, Quechua and Aymara.

Electricity: Both 110 volts, 60 cycles and 220 volts, 50 cycles. Often a voltage converter and two-prong plug adapter are necessary for U.S. appliances.

Religion: Predominantly Roman Catholic.

Time: Noon in La Paz is 11:00 a.m. U.S. Eastern Standard Time.

Public Holidays:
January 1: New Year's Day
Carnival: Monday and Tuesday before Ash Wednesday
Holy Week: Week before Easter
Corpus Christi: Thursday after the 8th Sunday after Easter
May 1: Labor Day
July 16: La Paz Municipal Holiday
August 6: Independence Day
October 12: Columbus Day
November 2: All Souls Day
December 25: Christmas

How to get there
American offers daily nonstop flights from Miami to La Paz with continuing service on to Santa Cruz. There is also reliable, scheduled hydrofoil service across Lake Titicaca from Peru. Also frequent, low-cost bus service from neighboring countries is bargain-priced (but painfully slow due to mountainous terrain).

City Codes
CBB: Cochabamba
LPB: La Paz
SRE: Sucre
VVI: Santa Cruz
TJA: Tarija

Entry Requirements

Valid U.S. passport. No visa required for American Citizens.

Currency

Bolivian boliviano. Exchange available at hotels, tourist agencies and banks. Banking hours are 9:00 a.m. - 12:00 noon and 2:00 p.m. - 4:30 p.m. Monday - Friday.

Taxes/Surcharges: International departure tax: $25.

Hotel taxes and service charges: Vary by city and are normally included in price of tour packages.

Tipping: Service is included in restaurant bills; it is not necessary to tip. Taxi drivers own their own cabs and do not expect a tip, except for long trips.

Shopping

Shop for vicuña and alpaca knitted and woven goods (rugs, ponchos, sweaters, wall hangings). Good buys in gold, silver and leather goods. Also, stop by the Witch's Market in La Paz for a fascinating view into Bolivian folk medicine. Here one may purchase exotic herbs and remediesfor ailments and prevention. Also popular are musical instruments, such as the charango (mandolin with armadillo shell sound box) and the quena (Inca flute). Wood carvings are also popular purchases.

Food and Drink
Although Bolivia is landlocked, fish is among the country's specialties. Freshwater trout from Lake Titicaca's icy waters and Surubi River fish are tasty examples. Typical foods can be exotic - tropical fruits from the jungle lowlands, chuno (pressed dehydrated, frozen and re-constituted potatoes), salteñas (spicy meat pies), sulpancho (fried breaded meat with eggs, rice and bananas) and picante de gallina (peppery chicken stew), to name a few. Yungueno (grape brandy with tangerine or orange juice) is the popular cocktail. Local beers are excellent.

Telephone

Country code: (591), La Paz (2), Cochabamba (42), Sucre (64), Troija (66) and Santa Cruz (33)

Weather
Climate is broken into three different regions: the Altiplano or Plateau, the valleys among the spurs of the mountains, and the tropics and valleys or Yungas lowlands. La Paz is situated on the Altiplano, a high windswept plateau that covers 10% of the country and averages 12,000 ft. altitude. Weather in La Paz can vary within the same day. March to November are the sunniest, driest months. Bring lightweight clothing for the lower valleys and Yungas.

Getting Around
From La Paz and Santa Cruz domestic airline service connects major cities within the country. Bus service is very popular and reliable. Routes are extensive, fares inexpensive. There is also train service. "Ferrobuses" connect La Paz with Cochabamba (8 hrs.), Potosi (11 hrs. 30 min.) and Sucre (16 hrs.) - check days of operation. One of the most popular surface trips in all South America begins in La Paz and ends in Cuzco, Peru. Journey across the Altiplano by bus, cross Lake Titicaca by hydrofoil and continue by train to Cuzco. For sheer stark, imposing natural beauty this two-day journey is unrivaled in all of South America.

MAJOR DESTINATIONS

The Altiplano
Covering nearly 10% of the country, this wide, often bleak and treeless high plateau is bordered on one side by the Western Cordillera with peaks soaring to 20,000 ft., and on the east by the Eastern Cordillera, which gradually slopes down into the tropical lowlands bordering Brazil, Argentina and Paraguay.

La PazLa Paz is headquarters of Bolivia's finance and commerce, as well as the main visitor destination. Lying in a natural basin and protected from the harshest Andean winds, snow-capped Mount Illimani (21,000 ft.) provides a spectacular backdrop to the city. Of interest in La Paz: San Francisco Church, richly decorated around native and religious themes; Central Market, with rows of stalls teeming with activity; Witches Market, for traditional folk remedies; and The Valley of the Moon, a unique landscape formed naturally by the wind and weather. Museum highlights include the outdoor Museum of Tiahuanaco, with an excellent collection of artifacts, and the Casa de Murillo, an artfully restored colonial home with paintings, furniture, and period costumes. There are a wide variety of restaurants. Be sure to take in a peña or folklore show featuring the instruments and haunting music of the Altiplano. Hotels available to suit every taste and budget.

Lake Titicaca World's highest navigable lake is a 3,500- sq.-mi. inland sea at an altitude of 12,500 ft, Titicaca is actually one large lake and a smaller one connected by a relatively narrow strait. Legends say the first Inca rose from the lake's depths. Still in use on Lake Titicaca are famous totora reed boats. Travelers crossing the lake between Peru and Bolivia stop at the Island of the Sun and mainland Copacabana. The Island of the Sun can be visited on a day trip from La Paz and is included on hydrofoil and catamaran lake crossings. An ancient Inca stone stairway takes visitors up to the ruins of Pilko, Caima where the view is superb. From La Paz the lake is 1 hr. by bus or car. Excellent hotel accommodations available on the Bolivian lakeshore.

Copacabana Just 100 mi. from La Paz, Copacabana, on the edge of Lake Titicaca, seems a world apart. There is a large, well restored church containing the 16th century miracle-working Dark Virgin of the Lake, also known as the Virgin of Morena, Bolivia's Patron Saint. Carved by the Indian Tito Yupanqui, the Dark Virgin of the Lake draws pilgrims from around the country. Lining the walkway around the church are Indian women in their black bowler hats selling colorful shawls, hats and handicrafts as well as religious items. Outside the church one may witness ceremonies blessing new cars and trucks. There is a weekly fiesta on Saturday that's followed on Sunday by climbing Calvary Hill of the Holy Sepulchre, past stations of the cross, for penance. From La Paz: 4 hrs. by bus. Clean and friendly hotel accommodations available.

TihuanacoThe mystery site of Tihuanaco pre-dates the Inca and contains five different horizons of habitation. Legend says Tihuanaco was built in a single night by a race of unknown giants. When the Incas arrived they found the city already in ruins. Monumental architecture here include the giant Gateway of the Sun, the semi-subterranean temple, the Puma Punku compound, Kalasaya compound and Acapana pyramid. From La Paz: 3 hrs. by car or bus. Hotels available in La Paz.

ChacaltayaJust 15 mountainous miles (but 90 min. driving time) from La Paz is the world's highest ski run, Chacaltaya. Season is December through March. The rope tow reaches 17,124 ft., and views from the top are inspiring. Skiing, though, at this altitude takes a well-conditioned heart and mind!

SorataJust 41 miles (but 4 - 6 mountain-driving hrs. one way) from La Paz, Sorata lies at the foot of Mount Illampu. The valley surrounding it has best been described as a virtual Shangri-La. Featuring views of Lake Titicaca, Sorata is a scenic spectacular. The area's caves have gigantic stalactites. The region offers challenging mountain climbing for the experienced climber.

South of La Paz
Oruro Located 140 miles from La Paz, Oruro is a railway hub and regional center for tin, silver and tungsten. Considered the home of Bolivian folklore, the Diablada ceremony during Carnival on the Saturday before Ash Wednesday is very popular. A bear and a condor clear the way for masked dancers led by Satan and Lucifer. Alternating with them are St. Michael, the Archangel and China Supay, the Devil's Wife, who portrays a carnal temptress. Following them are literally hundreds of dancers in devilish attire, all leaping, yelling and dancing. From La Paz: 3 hrs. by bus or car, 5 hrs. by train. Good hotels.

CochabambaBolivia's third-largest city, founded in 1542. Cochabamba is an important agricultural center and is often called the "Garden City" for its temperate climate. There is a fine local archaeological museum here featuring prehistoric artifacts, hieroglyphic inscriptions and pre-Inca textiles. There are frequent fiestas, especially around Carnival time, with local groups competing in music, dance and costumes, and mascarita balls, where women wear long, hooded satin masks. An excellent outdoor market is held on Wednesday and Saturday. From Cochabamba excursions can be made into the Chapare, at the edge of the jungle, and to the Sipe Sipe Inca ruins, an archaeological complex declared a national monument in 1929 with buildings, temples and a tower marking the solstice and equinox. From La Paz: 30 min. by air, 12 - 16 hrs. by car or bus, 8 hours by ferrobus. Several good Bolivian resort hotels provide accommodations for multi-night stays.

Santa CruzLocated on the eastern slope of the Eastern Cordillera, Santa Cruz is a modern-day boomtown. It is rapidly developing into a major retail center and has recently grown to become the country's second-largest city. Founded in 1651 by Spaniards arriving from Paraguay, the city is hot except from May to August, when cold surazo winds blow up from Argentina. Visit the Cathedral to see hand-wrought colonial silver. Carnival is celebrated with masked balls and street dances. From Santa Cruz there's a fascinating day trip to the unique, mountaintop ruins of Samaipata, which the German writer Eric von Daniken claims was a launch pad for prehistoric spacecraft. From La Paz: 1 hr. 40 min. by air, 23 hrs. by car or bus. Comfortable
hotels in town. Gambling casino.

PotosíAt 13,349 feet, Potosí was founded in 1545 by the Spaniards after they had discovered the Indian silver mine at Cerro Rico, the hill at whose foot the city now stands. For 300 years Cerro de Potosí was the world's largest, richest silver mine, helping finance Spain's ascent as a world power. The saying "It's worth a Potosí" still refers to anything extravagant. Large parts of Potosí today remain colonial. Here twisting, narrow streets and 17th century mansions still survive. Once one is acclimated to the altitude, fascinating walking tours are popular. From La Paz: 10 hours by ferrobus. Several hotels in charming colonial structures.

SucreBolivia's constitutional capital, Sucre was founded in 1538. Long isolation has helped it preserve its authenticity. Today, law requires all buildings to be painted the original colonial white. Public buildings are impressive. They include the 17th century cathedral with a jewel-encrusted Virgin of Guadelupe, and the Church of San Miguel reopened after 120 years still with carved and painted ceilings, pure-white walls, and a gold nd silver altar. San Lazaro, Sucre's oldest church, was built in 1537; it has fine silver work and alabaster. There are excellent museums. Drive to the top of Cerro Churquella, via a road flanked by Stations of the Cross, to see the statue of Christ, a panorama of Sucre and the countryside. A colorful Indian market in Tarabuco can be visited on Sundays on a full-day excursion. From La Paz: 1 hr. by air, 18 hrs. by bus or car, 20 hrs. by ferrobus. Several excellent hotels.

TarijaKnown for its mild climate, Tarija was founded in 1574 in the rich valley of the Guadalquivir River, where maize, vegetables, wheat, potatoes and vineyards thrive. There is a good archaeological collection, and the city is famous for its niño processions. Most famous is the procession of San Roque on the first Sunday in September. From La Paz: 1 hr. 20 min. by air, 13 hrs. by bus or car, 15 hrs. by ferrobus. Good hotels available, some with swimming pools.

The Yungas
Northeast of La Paz, an all-weather road traverses La Cumbre Pass (15,498 feet). In a little over 50 miles one descends 11,000 ft. from snow-capped peaks into the luxuriant green Alto Beni area where one may visit the following:

Coroico
Perched on a hill at 5,800 ft., Coroico offers outstanding scenery but limited facilities. Can be visited in a day's excursion from La Paz or on an overnight trip with adequate accommodations. Banana plantations and glaciers can be seen all in one day.

Chulumani
Capital of the South Yungas, Chulumani is the regional center for citrus fruits and coffee. Reached via the La Cumbre Pass, a visit to Chulumani is generally an overnight trip.

The Beni Lowlands
Here Bolivia's rich, tropical forests are crisscrossed by rivers that flow into the Amazon basin. Abundant wildlife may be seen on adventure safaris. Trinidad, founded in 1686, is the area's major town. From Trinidad one may make riverboat excursions and day trips into the tropical lowlands for bird watching, nature viewing, fishing, hunting and to visit the Siriono Tribe at Eviato Mission.

Special Interest Travel
Folk Culture Abundant and wildly colorful, the festivals of Bolivia are a must for travelers interested in folk art and folk culture. Carnival is celebrated throughout the country, most notably in Oruro, Cochabamba, Santa Cruz and Tarija. Other popular festivals are Alasitas Fair in La Paz in June, Festivity of Madonna of Urcupina in Cochabamba August 15.

Mountain Climbing The soaring peaks of the Western Cordillera offer world-class mountain climbing. Main peaks are Illimani (20,830 ft.), Mururata (18,826 ft.), Huayna Potosi (19,853 ft.) and Condori (18,582 ft.) in the Royal Range; Sajama in the Eastern Cordillera Range; and Illampu (20,772 ft.) near Sorata. Best climbing season May through October.

Indigenous CultureAlmost half of Bolivia's population is Indian, still living in very traditional communities. Three hours by car from Potosí are 300 families of the Chipaya who still live in their traditional mud igloos and retain their ancient language. On the shores of Lake Titicaca, the Floating Islands of the Uro are home to 600 families living as they did six centuries ago.

Botany The country boasts a most exotic flora. For example, 40 miles from La Paz, prehistoric cacti can be viewed. Standing 40 feet high, each plant blooms only once in 120 years. Each flower lasts two years.